A Sip and A Thought: Bar & Vines' 'Smoky Old Fashioned'

MONTGOMERY, TX -- I wasn’t planning on reviewing anything that day, but I stopped in to see my friend Rollis Johnson over at Slice of Amish in Historic Montgomery; and the next thing I know I was invited to a birthday party at Bar & Vines (right next door), for owner Harold Vines. I then went to say ‘Hi!’ to my friend Holly who bartends there, and she bum rushed me. “Ruben, Ruben, you gotta try the ‘Smokey Old Fashioned.’” I looked at myself, unshaven and not properly attired to handle a smoked drink. It was around 2:15pm, and the surprise party was at 6 that evening. So I headed home to clean up, check some email, and do a little writing, before I was back.

I arrived ahead of the unscrupulous ploy to get Harold to the bar. I sat next to a former Ohio couple, Bob and Pam Petro, who looked familiar, and it turns out we saw each other at another venue I recently reviewed. The chief bartender, Michelle Marciano, crafted the drink, which was wrapped in the smolder of this scientific looking glass cloche. I half way expected to see Michelle donned in a lab coat and protective glasses when she presented it to me.

I couldn’t even see the drink until the glass rose revealing a smokey cauldron of premium bourbon, three bitters, an orange peel, a premium cherry; all in a beautifully twisted crystalline whiskey glass. Quite frankly, it was a work of art.

Bar & Vines caters to the more substantive crowd. And rightly so. The stock B & V maintains would walk out on strike if placed on lesser shelves. Their Smokey Old Fashioned is designed for a refined palate. A palate that has seen things, did things, risked things, and now enjoys the better things in life. It’s an ‘Old Fashioned’ liquid offering to the God’s that deserves to be praised in a higher way. The smoke is a modern invention that takes it to another level, and adds another layer of flavor, of earthiness, or of ‘The North Woods’ as some may say.

Once you rescue the SOF from its smokey tomb, I’d advise just to look at. Take your time with this masterpiece. Think of it as a marination period. Let the orange peel get to know the bourbon, the bitters, and the must have, ‘Luxardo’ cherry. You’ll thank me later. Go ahead and get the scoop on what’s been happening at the tennis or pickleball courts. And find that cherry and crush it. You don’t want to miss out on the intensity of a flavor that could have been enhanced.

B & V allows you to choose your bourbon, and the flavor of your wood smoke. The bourbon’s strong, earthy flavor, pairs nicely with the smoke from the wood chips. I chose Blanton's Private Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon. Anything with a racehorse cap, I’m partial to. I also chose the cherry wood chips. Some recipes call for a sugar cube, but B&Vs doesn’t, which is why I crushed the cherry to allow the natural sugars to balance out the smoky flavor. The fresh orange peel allows for the release of the aromatic oils, which heightens the intensity of the cocktail. To start off without the aromatics is unthinkable. Which is why I called for a ceasefire before engaging with the SOF.

And once you take your first sip, let it pool on the tongue for a few seconds. You’ll find as it rolls off, you can taste how the bitters play off the bourbon, allowing for everything to go down smooth, with the tail end revealing the taste of the orange and cherry doing their fruity parts to the end.

The Bar & Vines atmosphere is inviting. Even during the slow parts of the day, you’ll catch friends in for a glass of wine and a quiet chat. The staff is great. Michelle, Holly, and Tori are there to take your orders, to make your visit as memorable as possible. The walls are adorned with pictures of famous country singers, ‘Come and Take It’ paraphernalia, rodeo posters, oil company signs, Texas flags, including one made of wine corks. There are a few American flags, and a ‘Howdy’ sign from the Brazos Valley uni-town up the road.

The Smokey Old Fashioned is very sophisticated. It has a smokey complexity and savorocity to it, and it’s the 21st Century rebirth of the classic hundreds year old cocktail. It’s been honored on the big and small screens, as well as in song. And I know it's gonna have a starring role with you when you are sitting, chatting, and having fun at Bar & Vines in Historic Montgomery.

Alcohol Disclaimer: This column is intended for entertainment purposes only. Please drink responsibly, not just for yourself, but for others around you.

Bar & Vines is located at 401 College Street. Their website is: barandvines.com

Ruben can be reached at: ruben@montgomerycountynews.net